The embellished designer, John Galliano, was all about theatrics and silent films in his 2011 spring/summer collection. The haunting show was focused on seeing the exclamation mark, a rather odd but also interesting concept that predominantly comes from the inspiration Galliano took from silent film founders Charlie Chaplin and Buster Keaton.
Silent film is about the overt manner of expression, about making a statement and explaining yourself through sight. And Galliano used this to make a statement about the androgyny, comedy and romantic chivalry that went into his collection. It contained Charlie Chaplin styled makeup and hair with tight blazers, slack trenchcoats, low-crotch pants, and unusual accessories, including the rope belt.
The more formal wear was a sophisticated mix between Buster Keaton and Sherlock Holmes, or perhaps more of a Mr Watson look, that contained some elegant double-breasted suits and used a very tame colour scheme that diverged around soft shades of brown and white. But even this more suave approach was not void of the collection’s eccentric accessories, including the face net and Buster Keaton’s trademark accomplice that is the pork-pie hat.
On the other hand, the daywear left the soft and sophisticated and took a stroll down a sinister alley that brought a taboo sense of sex appeal in disguise. Galliano’s use of 1920s styled suspenders under leather jackets and dark coats, left a very sharp impression as it lingered a teasing taste of the unknown, which leaves you wanted to know where the hidden suspenders lead.
And finally the swimwear was very Beau Chic, presenting the image of the dandy modern man, unafraid of sexuality or gender boundaries. Contrastingly, this modern look, and the entire collection, was reminiscent of times gone by, which emphasises the backdrop of the show that consisted of the mechanisms and constructions of time.
Images via Style.com
